Earthquakes in the land of the long white cloud...

I wrote this post last Tuesday but didn't share as I was still processing it all, as many of us no doubt were.  I've now added some more to the end of the post.

Tuesday, 15th November 2016

Overnight, my beloved New Zealand experienced a number of severe earthquakes in the South Island with the largest registering a 7.8 on the Richter Scale near Hamner Springs. The earthquakes were felt throughout the South Island and also the lower part of the North Island where damage was also sustained.

There has been major damage in the Kaikoura area that I blogged about recently.  I think the most confronting thing for me is seeing the extent of the road damage to roads I drove just two months ago. There was also damage to the Wellington Ferry Terminal where a bridge has collapsed and again, it's only 2 months since I was there.

I guess it begs the question, given it's no real secret that I wish to spend at least a year living in NZ in the not too distant future, would I still go?

The answer is yes, of course I will still go.  After all, I currently live in a country where there are frequent weather events - anything from bush fires to floods to extreme heat and cyclones.  I currently live in an area that experiences cyclones and the unit I live in is directly across from the beach, so it would be front line in a cyclone.

However, does this stop people from living in those areas?  No, it doesn't tend to do so.  What we can do, is be aware and take the necessary precautions.  We also have to realise that events of such magnitude are not daily or even regular (as in yearly for example) events.  This doesn't mean we become complacent, rather it's to add some perspective but also remember the importance of being prepared for events that may be seasonal.

I'm sure there will be much more information to come out over the coming days following the earthquakes and there will no doubt be a number of aftershocks. The large one of 7.8 was unusual in that it lasted around 2-3 minutes, which is much longer than they've usually been known to last in the area.

I hope people are safe.  I know it will take some time to recover and for the shock to ease.  I feel for the children who are often so traumatised and there is a comfort in seeing community come together.  I noticed there is a wildlife park in Christchurch that is opening it's doors to children for free today.

My heart goes out to all those affected in NZ today.

Please note, these are not my pics - they are photo's taken by others in NZ. Another thing to note is the time zone captured on my blog is incorrect.  The local time in Qld Australia is currently 7.34 am.

Updated Saturday, 19th November 2016

What a week!  New Zealand has been experiencing so many aftershocks with three over a magnitude 6.  By 2.30pm yesterday afternoon, there had been 2812 aftershocks many of which have been in the surrounding areas of the original quake.

The sea bed at Kaikoura has been left 2 metres above sea level following the quake and there are concerns that the seal colony at Ohau Point has been devastated.  If you've been following my blog, you will have seen photo's I posted of this area and the seals a couple of weeks ago.

There has been another line of thought that perhaps the seals instinctively knew that the quake was coming, as animals often do tend to have instincts that protect them in these events.  If this is the case, it is hoped they swam further out to sea however the concern is it is breeding season and seals tend to return to their areas to give birth.  Sadly, that area is no longer there (or not in the way it previously was) so hopefully the seals will be able to find another place to have their pups.

I have tried unsuccessfully to include a video clip I took 2 months ago of the seals playing in the water at Ohau Point (just north of Kaikoura), so have added a seal pic plus another pic taken in the area of the beautiful coastline.

Te Anau and Milford Sound

Te Anau is a picturesque little town and is an ideal base for visiting Milford Sound and exploring more of the Fiordland.  It's based in the Southland region of the South Island and I quite enjoyed the couple of days I spent here.

Te Anau sits on the eastern side of the lake and Lake Te Anau itself is the largest lake in the South Island and the second largest in New Zealand, with Lake Taupo in the North Island being the largest.

There are a number of really good restaurants in Te Anau and I had the best pizza I've ever tasted from La Toscana Pizzeria & Spaghetteria.  Follow that up with some delicious gelato from a little place nearby and you've had a night of Italian decadence.

While in Te Anau, if you enjoy a lake cruise, a little adventure and some educational info, you can take a cruise to the Lake Te Anau Glow Worm Caves.  The cruise itself is informative and you learn some of the history of the lake.  As with all of the lakes that I've been to in NZ, Lake Te Anau has some stunning scenery.

After facing a fear and going into caves in Tasmania a few months previous to my visit to the Te Anau caves, these ones took going into caves to a whole new level. 

The entrance to the caves is just over a metre high, so you have to crouch to go through, then it's very dark in there with minimal lighting. You can hear rushing water and the guide will show you a waterfall. 

Eventually you make your way to where a little tiny boat or punt awaits (it only fits around 10-12 people) and you squish in to go on a journey in total silence where it's pitch black with just the very loud sounds of the waterfalls in the caves. 

At times it doesn't feel like you are moving, but you see all these little tiny glow worms on the top of the caves. So pretty! At the end of the boat ride coming out of the caves, we saw an eel and a trout in the waters of the cave.. amazing stuff!

In Te Anau you can also hire little motor scooters.  I was very tempted but hadn't ridden any kind of motorbike/scooter for more years than I care to think about, so I chickened out and then of course, regretted it later.  We only live once eh?

About a 15-20 minute drive from Te Anau is the little town of Manapouri which is situated on the edge of Lake Manapouri. There are a few little shops across the road from the lake and one of these little cafe's does a delicious breakfast.  What could be nicer than great food and awesome views!

From Te Anau, it's almost a 2 hour drive to Milford Sound. Again, it's a rather scenic drive and there are places you can stop along the way to take pics and enjoy the surroundings.  

Unfortunately, I didn't do my homework well enough and I missed seeing The Chasm - also partly due to it pouring rain at the time I went past and if I'd stopped, I'd been late for my cruise.  However, if I'd checked it out prior to my drive, I could easily have worked that in as well rain or no rain.

The Chasm is situated about halfway between the Homer Tunnel and Milford Sound.  It's about a 20 minute return walk into the forest to a series of waterfalls over the Cleddau River.  This bowls and basins in the rocks at the Chasm have been formed from swirling water over thousands of years.  This place is one that's on my bucket list to see next time I'm in the area.

On your drive, you will pass through the Homer Tunnel which is a 1.2 km single lane tunnel that cuts through the Darran Mountain Range.  While waiting to go into the tunnel, there are often the friendly but ever so cheeky and somewhat destructive alpine Kea's who come to check out your car and perhaps snitch a little piece of windscreen rubber to chew.

When you arrive in Milford Sound, there is a little cafe opposite the car park where you can have something to eat or drink before walking over to where you catch the cruise boat.

The day I went out, the weather was very overcast and rainy which gave the Sound a beautiful but somewhat eerie feel to it in places. There is plenty to see on the cruise from wildlife, to the spectacular scenery that includes tree-valanches and waterfalls. I also learnt that a cruise on Milford Sound isn't complete without a glacial facial!

The Catlins

The route from Dunedin to Invercargill is only about two and a half hours, however, if you can spare a whole day for the drive, then the Catlins drive won't disappoint.

There is something for everyone on this drive and you can stop as little or as much as you like.  The Catlins is off the beaten track on the Southern Scenic Route and takes in the area from Kaka Point to Fortrose.

From beautiful rural country to rugged coastline, a petrified forest, lakes and a gorgeous waterfall, not to mention the variety of wildlife you may see along the way, this drive is a wonderful way to spend a day.

The Catlins website has lots of information and maps that include points of interest.  I printed off a map and a list of places I wanted to see along this drive.

I left Dunedin early-ish around 7.30 am as I wanted the time to soak up as much of the scenery as possible.  My final destination was Te Anau, so I had a fair drive ahead of me.

I love the country side in NZ and the area south of Dunedin with it's rolling green hills is as appealing as ever.  

There are numerous little bays around the coastline where various wildlife native to the area can be found and plenty of walking tracks.  There is a variety of shorter walks and longer walks on this trip, so planning ahead is wise if you're wanting to do some further exploration.

My first stop was Kaka Point which gave me a beautiful view of the ocean as I headed towards Nugget Point. I seem to miss the ideal tide times on half of my trips and once again, that was the case on this drive.  

I was unable to see all the 'nuggets' that make up Nugget Point, however, I was able to see the largest one which doesn't go under water and another smaller one beside it. The large one was impressive and had an array of bird life nesting all over it. 

My next stop was Purakaunui Falls. They are a 20 minute return walk in from the car park and are a hidden treasure. A stunningly beautiful waterfall set in among the rainforest.

There were a couple of places I wanted to see that were affected by the tides unfortunately.  One was Cathedral Caves which are only accessible at low tide, so they will have to wait for another day.

Curio Bay is where you will find the Petrified Forest that dates back to the Jurassic Period and this is known as a geological site of International Significance.  Again, the Fossil Forest is best viewed at low tide and you may also be lucky enough to see the protected yellow eyed penguins if you're there later in the day.

A short walk will take you to Porpoise Bay where you can see the Hector Dolphins playing in the surf, although they are more likely to be seen during the summer months apparently.  I've had two attempts to try and see these little dolphins - Porpoise Bay and Akaroa but alas they've been elusive.  One day I'll be successful!

My last stop along this drive was Waipapa Point where there is an historic lighthouse.  As you're driving towards the lighthouse, it looks like it's located in a farmland paddock!  However, as you draw closer, it's past the paddocks and once again, the views are beautiful.  

There is so much more to see than the places I stopped at along this drive.  To do it justice, you probably need to take a couple of days and check the tides before you go for those places that are only visible at low tide.


As I came to the end of the Catlins drive, I managed to get lost in Invercargill for half an hour or more. I somehow missed a turn off, so it was early evening by the time I arrived in Te Anau which made for a rather long day, however, it had been a good one.

Dunedin

As a city, Dunedin is one that I quite like as it has a lot to offer. In the middle of the city, there are the Chinese Gardens which offer a peaceful respite in a beautiful setting.  The gardens are like stepping into a traditional Chinese scenic painting.

Bridges, statues, hand made wooden buildings, hand made tiles and lattice work all crafted by a team of artisans from authentic Chinese materials in Dunedin's sister city, Shanghai. In among all of this are the flowers and trees that make up this beautiful garden.

They also have a tea house where you can enjoy Chinese teas, steamed buns and dumplings in the tranquility of the gardens or the Tea House.  The little gift shop has a delightful array of items that make beautiful gifts for loved ones.

Only a few blocks away, is Cadbury World which is a fun and delicious place to visit. You have the option of doing a self guided tour or a fully guided tour which is a delightful journey through time and all about the world of chocolate.  The guided tour also takes you to a Sensory Lab where you can taste and learn more about the chocolate process.

The gift shop is a chocolate lovers dream and has plenty to offer for all.  There is also a cafe where you can indulge in a range of baked sweets or savoury items with something to suit nearly everyone's taste.

Also in the city is the beautiful Dunedin Railway Station which is said to be the most photographed building in NZ.  The architecture is very grand and the attention to detail is incredible both inside and out.  There is also an art gallery within the station that is sure to have something that appeals to most people.

If you are spending a night in Dunedin, then I'd highly recommend Larnach Castle just for the experience.  Larnach Castle has stunning views across Dunedin, the Otago Harbour and the Peninsula.

The castle is set in among 7 acres of beautifully maintained gardens and you are given a coloured map to help you find your way around.  The gardens are recognised by the NZ Govt as Gardens of International Significance.

The castle itself was built by William Larnach in the 1800's and has a very colourful history.  The early years held much sadness, the earlier 1900's saw it used for a multitude of purposes, a period of abandonment, then a series of different owners before it was bought by the current owners in 1967 by the Barker Family.

I was going to write about more of the detailed history here, but I've decided not to as it may spoil your enjoyment of hearing the story between courses if you ever happen to have dinner at the castle.

There is a variety of accommodation available at Larnach Castle and all accommodation includes entry to the castle and gardens plus a hearty breakfast the next morning in the Stables.  

The first time I stayed at the castle, I stayed in the stable accommodation which is above the original stables where the breakfast area and guest lounge is situated.  The stable accommodation has smaller rooms and shared bathrooms, however, are still quite comfortable.

On my second visit, I stayed in the Lodge accommodation and the room I had was the Victorian Room, complete with beautiful 4 poster bed.  All the rooms are themed and mine also had a window with views over the Otago Harbour and Peninsula.

It's well worth paying a little extra to have dinner at the castle, again just for the experience but also the food is delicious!  Both times I visited I was travelling alone and the first time, had dinner in the dining room with 7 other people. 

It was lovely small group and we got to know each other a little over the meal.  Lots of fun, lots of laughter and the pleasure of hearing the story in between the courses. It was sleeting by the time we all left that evening and although some of us held hope for a spring time snowfall, it wasn't to be.

The second time I stayed, there were many more people so they divided the group and I was among 18 who dined in the music room.  Again, a good night but not quite the intimacy of the small group the first time.

When leaving the next morning, rather than turning back towards Dunedin, drive towards out along the peninsula.  It's very scenic with a road that winds around the coastline of the peninsula.  There's a little place called Portobello where I found a fabulous little gift shop with plenty of quirky cards and items. I've thoroughly enjoyed this drive on both occasions.

If you like a bit of fun and a challenge, there is one other must do place to visit in Dunedin before you leave.  Baldwin Street. The steepest street in the world! For those fit enough and keen enough for the workout, you can walk it.  Otherwise, even the drive is a challenge and it's not recommended you stop along the way.

Baldwin Street rises gently at first, then is extremely steep towards the end. Overall it rises 47.22 m over it's length of 161.2 m which is a gradient of 1 in 3.41 for those who understand such things.

The day I drove up, there were tourists breathlessly walking, stopping, walking and taking photo's of me driving up.  I arrived at the top to cheers!  How funny was that, given they were walking and would have deserved the cheers far more than me once they arrived at the top.

I have to say the U-turn at the top was a tad challenging, as was trying not to let the car run away on the way back down. If you're into that type of thing, I say give it a go, it's a hoot!

Driving down the East Coast of the South Island - part 2

I don't recall anything that particularly captured my attention on the drive from just below Kaikoura to Christchurch.  Perhaps that's due in part to the fact it had been a long day that started early in Wellington, North Island and included a trip on the Interislander Ferry before the drive from Picton to my arrival in Christchurch around 9.30 pm.

Last year, we flew into Christchurch and drove to Akaroa which is a pretty little French Provincial type of town, that sits in the heart of an ancient volcano.  The drive as you head down into Akaroa is beautiful which you will probably hear, or should I say read, me saying a lot when describing various parts of New Zealand as much of the scenery is simply gorgeous.

I was very keen to do a cruise as again, there is some very unique sea life in this part of New Zealand.  The smallest and rarest Hector Dolphins play in this part of the world and I was really hoping to see them.  However, the weather was not on our side that day and all cruises were cancelled.  So another one for the to do list!

Heading further down the coast is some beautiful coastline, particularly around the Timaru and Oamaru area. In Oamaru, you will find the Steampunk HQ Museum which is in a fantastic old building and houses some unique artworks.

Oamaru has some well preserved heritage buildings as well as stone buildings made from local limestone.  There is a Victorian precinct near the Steampunk HQ Museum where you will find an array of eclectic shops and some of the shopkeepers wearing Victorian clothing as well.  It's a great place to have a wander and a browse and you could easily spend a number of hours there.

The area is also known for it's little blue penguins and yellow eyed penguins, however, I didn't see any in my travels as I were there at the wrong time of day.  Sunset is the best time to see these little beauties.

Whitestone Cheese is also made in Oamaru.  I didn't get to visit their factory, however, I have tasted their cheeses and I'm a very big fan.  Their Moeraki Blue is delicious as are their soft cheeses, so some taste testing is highly recommended.

Further down the road is a little place named Moeraki where there are some large volcanic boulders scattered along the beach.  It's only a small place, so you need to watch for the signs (just south of Hampden).  

There is a cafe/restaurant and gift shop with a generous carpark.  You can take a walk down to the beach for a gold coin donation to look at these spectacular boulders.  I've seen them a few times now, but have never managed to be there with the right tides at either sunset or sunrise as I would love to photograph them then.  However, they are pretty amazing at any time of day.